Picking Natural Textiles

Pick Natural Headquarters in San Francisco, California

Picking Natural

For an experience that was a complementary mix of fashion, technical design, and environmentalism, I worked at a sustainable textile company in San Francisco. It turned out to be a great experience for not only learning all about the industry of organic textile development, I also met a bunch of sustainable designers in the process. Yet, the scientist in me loved learning about technical side of textile development: all the different types of fibers that are available (ie. regenerated fibers from certified raw materials which are non-GMO, from post-consumer waste! ), the different types of fabrics (i.e. hemp fleece, cotton poplin, yak cashmere knit, etc.), and the entire organic production process. The founder, Dawn Pickering (Chinese native married to an American), founded the company some 10+ years ago, so she was pretty much a stretch ahead of the curve in terms of the development of the sustainable fashion industry. In her early 30’s, she even traveled to China to set up a farm specifically for hemp cultivation and hemp textile manufacturing, all with proper Organic certification. Since then, she has created over 200 unique products ranging from organic cotton and hemp silks to even recycled soy-waste knits (which seemed to be very popular among the yogis).

Notes on the organic textile production process in China (2014).

the production process

This is a sketch pulled from one of my notebooks that I kept during my time at the textile company. I was thinking of recreating this into a digital format, but I kind of like the rough sketch — it just a reminder of simpler times when I just started exploring all possibilities of sustainable fashion as a (temporarily?) retired lab-rat. Here we have the supply chain for organic agriculture for textile production — most of it is done in the northeast regions of China since that’s where most of the flat, non-polluted areas of land are (most of the industrial factories are located in Southern China, hence the higher rates of pollution).

Farmers harvesting flax plants for retting. ph. by Dawn Pickering.

MANUAL ORGANIC

It was surprising to find out that most of the harvesting process is done manually to maintain the structure of the fiber — longer fibers lend to the strength of fabrics. The plants also are put through a retting process that allows for a natural decompensation for added flexibility. Here is a photo of one of the company's farms in China during harvest season — I believe these involve linen production from the flax plant.

Separately packaged organic fibers to prevent cross-contamination with other non-organic materials. ph. by Dawn Pickering.

NO CONTAMINATION

All stages through the supply chain must be established to ensure that organic and conventional fibers are not commingled and that organic fibers and GOTS Goods are not contaminated by contact with prohibited substances. All organic raw materials must be clearly labeled and identified as such at all stages of the supply chain to prevent cross-contamination with any prohibited materials (i.e. pesticides and herbicides; GMO particulates; unqualified sizing and bleaching agents, etc.).

Final processing stage for soy viscose fabric in natural. ph. by Dawn Pickering.

The web with a weaver

Here we have an individual batch of fabric going through one of the final treatment stages. This fabric here actually soy fabric, which is made through a similar biochemical process as any viscose fabric, which is a semi-synthetic fabric made from reconstituted cellulose from plants, which is similar to rayon (a synthetic fiber). Viscose production however was designed to be less a wasteful process, which involves the use of less harsh chemicals (like caustic soda, what’s used in soap making) to breakdown the complex chains of cellulose so that it can be extruded into a nozzle to form the individual fibers, and 75-90% of the chemicals and water can be recycled.

Bolts of remnants at Pick Natural headquarters in San Francisco, CA. ph by me.

The REMNANTS

The founder was so cleverly conservative that she makes sure she sold every piece down to the final yard and this is required very meticulous manual accounting (considering that each batch was prepared on a bolt of fabric with 200+ yards). I’ll probably create another post describing all the different properties of the fibers and fabrics that are available, but in the meantime, here is a collection of possibilities for sustainably colorful accouterments.

more information

The #1 Way to Sustainably Meeting Your Needs

Fashion_and_Sustainability

Feeding the Beast Within…

Unconscious Consumerism

To be unaware of the sustainability movement in this day and age would require you to be living in a coal mine somewhere on the outskirts of Wyoming. Or hiding behind the white walls of Capital Hill — ignorance certainly is not specific to any socioeconomic class. I’d like to idealize that most people can fathom how “unconscious consumerism” can be destructive to our culture and planet. There are a plethora of reports on how the polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) released in our water supplies are toxic endocrine disruptors; how humans have been the primary cause of the spike in greenhouse gas emissions over the last 150 years; and how we would need about 5 Planet Earths for every human to sustain a typical All-American lifestyle. However, as someone who has been in the medical/scientific research field for the majority of my life thus far, I don’t think the way humans consume is always entirely under our conscious control. Constantly blaring warning signals may even aggravate one’s conscientious capabilities for making healthier decisions (e.g. the impact of stress on the HPA axis of the brain).

Design for change

As observed through my lens of bias, I think that there is a serious human crisis of unresolved needs plaguing our culture that is being artificially resolved with manufactured wants. “Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change” is a solid read for understanding all facets of sustainability in the consumer industry — from the design philosophy, sourcing of materials, textile selection, and production methods. But I think the chapter on “Needs” gets to the core of this chronic abuse of overconsumption (aka addictions), which applies the ideologies of economist Manfred Max-Neef and his taxonomy for human-scale development in communities with limited resources. I’ve also provided an example from my personal experience on how I’ve come to resolve some of my counterproductive habits through the identification of a core need. Hopefully, I can shine a light on any misunderstood aspects of our global sustainability concerns.

Manufactured wants vs Real needs

This excerpt from the book sums up the reality of manufactured wants versus real needs:

“Conventional growth-focused economic wisdom promotes human craving for novelty and things as both natural and desirable. Yet humans’ desire for cyclical variety is easily manipulated by commerce. The cultural message of growth pervades our daily lives, clouding our perceptions, so that cutting through the sheer volume of commercial clutter to distinguish between real needs and manufactured wants is far from easy. But Manfred Max-Neef provides a view of human needs and motivations that helps us reflect deeply on the industry, design practice and ourselves. ”
— Excerpt From: Kate Fletcher. "Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change."

Chilean economist Manfred Max-Neef details his now famous phrase "the economy is to serve the people, not people serve the economy."

MANFRED MAX-NEEF’S HUMAN SCALE DEVELOPMENT

Manfred Max-Neef was a German-Chilean economist and environmentalist mainly known for his human development model based on fundamental human needs. Max-Neef started his career as a Professor of economics at the University of California, Berkeley in the early 1960s, with much of his research done as a visiting Professor in various universities around Latin America and the United States. The bulk of his ideologies grew from his time living and experiencing the life of various poverty-stricken communities in South America; hence, his focus was on the development in the Third World. He criticized the inappropriateness of applying conventional models of development, which have contributed to poverty, debt and ecological disasters for Third World communities. And that at present we are going through not only an economic-financial crisis but “a crisis of humanity.” His fundamental needs taxonomy was a tool to help people reconcile their needs while adjusting to the limited availability of resources.

Max-Neef proposed that all human needs are universal and immutable, but the strategies to create “satisfiers” are flexible and negotiable. Based on the source of capital, however, they can be “sustainable” or “unsustainable”.

SATISFIERS VS DESTROYERS

This is a description of Manfred Max-Neef’s taxonomy of human needs from the sustainable fashion book, and how it can apply to your sustainable growth (especially about the part concerning “poverty of the whole”):

“Max-Neef’s taxonomy of human needs was developed from his work with small communities in South America, to help identify their “wealths” and “poverties” and then to work on how these may be best maximised and minimised respectively. He identified nine fundamental human needs and myriad “satisfiers” (which fall into four existential states: being, having, doing and interacting). Max-Neef notes that one satisfier may address several needs at once and benefit the whole, while “destroyers” may seem to satisfy a need but in fact inhibit several other and bring poverty to the whole.”
— Excerpt From: Kate Fletcher. "Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change."

Max-Neef’s Taxonomy of Fundamental Needs and Satisfiers

I’ve reproduced Max-Neef’s Taxonomy on Google Sheets so that you can conveniently track the satisfiers that you have resolved:

The Manfeed Max-Neef taxonomy that I’ve recreated on Google Spreadsheets for helping you identify and track your fundamental human need that you’ve satisfied so to better understand which aspects of your life that you need work on to avoid maladjust…

The Manfeed Max-Neef taxonomy that I’ve recreated on Google Spreadsheets for helping you identify and track your fundamental human need that you’ve satisfied so to better understand which aspects of your life that you need work on to avoid maladjusted behaviours.

A PERSONAL REFLECTION ON UNSUSTAINABLE HABITS

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Counterproductive Coping Mechanisms

I’ve come to realise that my excessive consumer habits were a coping mechanism to counter anxieties influenced by an onslaught of self-deprecating thoughts from an insecure sense of identity. Ergo, I used my desperate hunt for one as an excuse to uninhibitedly seek novel purchases, other people’s validation, and (for a period) sedating substances to dampen the unbearable feelings of unease. The benefit, however, has been an openness to interacting with a whole smorgasbord of folks who have provided some sort of direction and a familial sense of belonging. Fashion, on the other hand, was a self-empowering, fresh set of armor; it was the disguise that allowed me to quickly shape-shift into an upgraded version of myself. However, as we’re all probably familiar with, most forms of externally-derived comfort provide a dose of dopamine that requires a constant fresh supply to sustain the positive feedback.

Mandatory Mirroring

The number one method that has resolved a good portion of my anxieties was to find mentors (in real life) that mirrored my greatest potential, highest ideals, and most importantly resonated with my sense of play. That has been my fast-track pass to breaking destructive behavioral patterns that were primarily emotional crutches. For those of us who were raised to dysfunction through the motivation of external validation (whether it be good grades, high salaries, attractive partners, etc.), the ultimate goal of proper mirroring is to help one align with their core reserves of self-love. This foundational sense of self begins formation during early childhood and requires a parent or primary caretaker to properly mirror back your personal experience through reaffirming behaviors (e.g. the excitement of the budding dancer instead of rage as a hyperactive nuisance). However, based on my personal experience, this can also be cultivated later in life — and maybe it’s meant to be a lifelong process. Nevertheless, all humans are creative forces that require consistent interconnectivity to sustain healthy habits. Consuming is just one side of the same coin of connection (the other side being creation) which can be harnessed beneficially as equally as it can be destructive. And I’ve come to realize at the ripe age of 30+ that a prerequisite to healthy connecting is to be in touch with an unshakeable sense of self.

Conscious Communities

When it comes to interactions that foster your core identity, there are plenty of nice people to choose from but only the right tribe can support your evolution — as obvious as that sounds. And you’re welcome for my perpetual experiences of trial and error. If you find that you are a social chameleon, and/or are constantly seeking external validation (be it new purchases, rewards, relationships, etc.) as an immediate resolution to a feeling of “emptiness,” then you may have been raised in a family that did not properly mirror back your core identity. However, I also think this is a mass issue as a result of multigenerational traumas and societally imposed belief systems. As for myself, I’d like to think that I’ve collected an amalgamation of ideas that I can call (on most days) an unshakeable core self. And this hasn’t been without the help of people that I admire, and who also resonate back a loving response. Fictional characters and public figures can be a part of your inspiration repertoire too, but intimate conversations on shared passions and similar senses of humor gives me that joie de vivre — there has not been a designer ensemble, Parisian vacation, or gastronomical creation that’s provided greater gratification than finding a counterpart who could navigate (or at least partially wade in) the expansive corners of one's personal paracosm (although I’m not opposed to most forms of a good time). This brief excerpt from Stone Medicine, a helpful resource on holistic health, helped me realign with the purpose of the choices that we make:

“Implicit in having a sense of purpose in life, with the ability to develop deep, meaningful relationships, is the need to make choices. When we leave our families and go off to school or work, we do not make friends with just anybody we meet. We seek out those people who support our own self-perception, who reflect back to us who we think we are... Our relationships are not just the result of circumstances; they are reflections of our motivations for choosing who we are going to allow into our lives... If our lives are meaningful, with satisfying, fulfilling relationships and vocations, our choices are working for us. If not, the objective observation of our motivations can help us to change.”
— Excerpt From: Leslie J. Franks. “Stone Medicine"

Personal Peace

So there you have it, my number one tip for sustainably meeting your needs on our finite, though endlessly loving Mother Earth: to make a conscious effort to connect with people who resonate the best out of you, and not just out of circumstance. And to not be afraid of making mistakes with your interactions because it’s bound to happen — and if they don’t vibe, they aren’t your tribe and possibly a temporary lesson in disguise. Unproductive attachments (to objects, people, etc.) can be, in Max-Neef’s terms, destroyers of development (and all those hours at hot yoga sweating your ass off past disappointments will become NULL and VOID). Naturally, any social intelligence that I have is credited to my fair share of social faux pas which I’ve wallowed about for eons in my bottomless pit of toxic shame. Thank goodness for the overly benevolent souls from the Universe who have managed to help pull me out my emotional sludge. And now I present to you these transmuted nuggets of wisdom that I’ve decided to call my four Ps for personal peace (which is in itself a process-in-progress):

1. Process: how we choose to navigate life
2. People: who’s in it for the long (or short) haul
3. Place: timing and location
4. Products: meaning inspired creations.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

To end this sort of sideways approach to clearing out old skeletons from my closet, I will leave you with another excerpt from Stone Medicine that I think is a pleasant, minimalistic summary for the purpose of struggle in our sustainable self-actualisation process:

“Emotional and physical pain is intrinsic to human experience. The difficulties and tragedies we inevitably encounter are tests of our faith, devotion, and compassion. For most of us illness will be unavoidable, even if we make the effort to eat and exercise properly. At the same time, our illnesses and our pain can be our best teachers to help us discover the lessons we must learn in order to complete the curriculum for this life. Even if we are not able to cure our illnesses, they offer us a wonderful opportunity to become aware and conscious about our innermost being and to achieve a higher degree of wisdom.”
— Excerpt From: Leslie J. Franks. “Stone Medicine”

Updated in 2019

Cleaner Cotton Initiative

My friend Sarah attempting to consume cotton in a non-sustainable manner, photo by me.

It’s just after sunrise when my fellow traveling companion and I take off for a 2-hour drive out to the ethereal yet solemn terrain of California’s San Joaquin Valley, with its expanse of uniform agriculture revealed in the morning afterglow. In the same location that feeds the belly of the silicon beast, grows the Sustainable Cotton Project’s Cleaner Cotton™ For a typical city slicker like myself, a spontaneous venture out to the world's breadbasket was quite an extreme transition of environments. And seeing an extension of the sustainable agriculture movement revealed a whole other layer of value, or rather lack of value, in our clothing and the interconnected supply chains.

In the Silicon Valley Bay Area, the metaphor of money growing (and falling) from trees could not be more accurate. It’s the usual suspect for seemingly overnight emergence of technological ventures with initial capital investments valuing anywhere between the cost of a 30 second Super Bowl Ad ($4 million in 2014) to Obama’s vacation to Martha’s Vineyard ($100 million of our nation's taxpayer dollars). Tesla plans to expand cobalt mining (a headlining conflict mineral in Africa) to power more “greener" commuter vehicles of choice; the Whole Foods stock price drop could be seen as "good time for investors to snap up an excellent company for a good price”; while water-dependent businesses have seized new business ventures in response to California entering its 4th year of record-breaking drought. Despite this oversimplification of the seemingly limitless economic capacities in our region, it doesn’t discount the fact that there is one consistently limiting factor: the environment.

California's Top 5 Commodities in 2014 (million USD)

Agricultural Production in the California (2014)

The agricultural industry may seem humble in comparison to the entire California economy, but it’s the lifeblood of commerce in the San Joaquin Valley. Here we have a small but nimble group of farmers supplying 40% of America’s fresh produce, growing more the 350 different crops. Even though SJV accounts for only 2 percent of the state’s total $2 trillion economy, the Central Valley leads more than 37% of ag production and processing statewide. Over one-fifth of jobs in the Central Valley are linked to agriculture, with every $1 generated by farms linked to the production of another $3.50 in the local and regional economy.

Infographic based on information from the UK Pesticide Action Network (source).

Yet underlying their agricultural prosperity are growing economic struggles — in 2013, about 26% of the Fresno County residents lived in poverty compared to 15.9% statewide, with a median household income of $35,000. And problems don’t seem to slowing down as farmers are being forced to curtail their water rights due to the drought . On top of that, poor schooling is a chronic problem in the valley, crime and homelessness are rampant, while leading the third highest rate of foreclosure crisis in the country.

Cotton Agriculture in 2013 (acres)

Note: Conventional Cotton disproportionately produced (83,000,000 acres) that other options are nearly invisible on graph (530,000 acres, ~16,000 acres, 801 acres respectively) ; (W) refers to World, CC™ refers to Cleaner Cotton™, CA refers to California.

Cotton is a vital commodity in the development of the world’s clothing industry, most of which are produced through conventional/chemical ways (i.e. pesticides, herbicides, etc.). Only a small group of organizations are trying to connect brands to farmers that provide “cleaner” sources. Although organic cotton agriculture may not be an economically viable venture in California, which is grown according to the USDA’s National Organic Standard using non-genetically modified seeds, Cleaner Cotton™, the roistered trademark for cotton grown in SCP’s program, just might be the one-two punch strategy.

Even though Cleaner Cotton™ uses both genetically modified seeds from Monsanto or non-GMO seeds, which maintains the seed supply for the future- new (and safer) agricultural jobs are created in the local economy while removing several tons of the 13 deadliest pesticides from farmland. Regardless of the origin of the seed, all Cleaner Cotton™ is grown under stringent production methods that enhance the environmental goals of any existing organic cotton program.

The Sustainable Cotton Projects' "Nine Good Reasons
to Implement the Cleaner Cotton™ Program."

Applied Water for California Crops in 2010 (million acre/feet)

Source: file:///Users/victoriafong/Desktop/CA-Ag-Water-Use.pdf

Overall, this tour has given me an expanded appreciation of the resources that go into producing our clothing. Through researching why I didn't want to be involved in the Fashion industry, I've come across gut-wrenching problems that riddle the industry like pollution (right behind the oil industry, the #1 most polluting industry on the planet), the exploitation of less fortunate countries and communities (Rana Plaza collapse in 2013), and health concerns (carcinogenic dyes to warped body issues), and more.

Nonetheless, we are making healthier choices which are reflected in social changes like the growing options of organic and whole foods, the growing awareness of global warming, and the greater use of holistic and preventative care practices. It only seems natural that the filtering of our consumer behavior should extend to our clothing and fiber choices. However, the cleaner cotton product would still requires production and scaling for sustainability, and may put an immediate strain on already limited local water resources. Ideally, we would encourage the use of hemp, which is arguably the most sustainable textile and nutritional product on this planet, but it’s gone through the wringer of legislation for quite some time. Hopefully, a sustainable planet won’t be the stuff made of green dreams. And perhaps there is hope for all of us to extend the life of our current wardrobes - to buy just one less “dirty” shirt, and invest in a “cleaner” alternative.

Updated in 2019.

Purple Impression FW 2015

Model Nile Girard wearing Purple Impression’s organic hand-embroidered scarf, photo by me.

What originally caught my eye was the stunning floral needlework featured on a casual tunics, which I first noticed at the San Francisco’s 2nd Annual Sustainable Fashion Week International Event. And as a sucker for all things elaborately embroidered, I gravitated over like a kid in a candy store to be greeted by Drakshan- the designer and social entrepreneur behind the ethical fashion line Purple Impression. It’s a special type of experience to cross paths with people that exude natural authenticity, and getting to know Drakshan made initiating a creative collaboration even more gratifying.

Model Nile Giruard in Purple Impression Embroidered Summer Tunic dress in White, photo by me.

Income inequalities in developing countries aren't foreign, but it is nonetheless a brave endeavor to try to elevate the issue. In the case of Purple Impression, it was an eye-opening and honest experience to learn about the Pakistani communities of Drakshan’s heritage. During multiple trips to her motherland, she observed the stifling limitations on women in impoverished regions of Pakistan. Married women aren’t allowed to leave their homes due to strict social regulations that are enforced by their husband’s and fathers. Thus limiting their economic abilities to establish their financial independence and ultimately choices they make in their lives.

Model Nile Giruard wearing Purple Impression Hand-block printed tunic blouse, photo by me.

So instead of staying frustrated, Drakshan went (thread)balls out with Purple Impression by infusing her professional background in finance with a sustainable fashion solution. The Ethical Stitch project, which emerged from the vein of Purple Impression business model, that reinvigorates a dying fashionable art form to empower artisans, mostly women, with a source of financial freedom which has already been used towards medical aid, higher education for their children, and nutritional supplementation. For more details about the ethical and sustainable model behind Purple Impression, check out this awesome interview by Sustainably Chic: 

Model Nile Giraurd in Purple Impression Asma Button-down shirt, photo by me.

Beyond the fabric of fashion, Drakshan weaves a story of optimism in the face of adversity. The challenges she faced as a woman finding her footing in a foreign country, the impact of her Islam traditions on her social enterprise, and the struggles of motherhood that inspired her passion to empower other mothers are the culmination of Purple Impression. I can only hope that my visual expression of this fashion line will inspire you to ditch mass produced threads for ethical stitch. -VF