Rock Fusion

I don’t usually dress like a Mongolian shepherd meets Eskimo dog-sled driver, but when I do I make sure the weather is little over 10F degrees warmer than it’s bearable while sauntering through the back alleys of Oakland with Afshan — good friend, co-founder of Purple Impression, and my impromptu fashion photographer. Embroidery has a special place in my fashion repertoire because it lends a decadent experience built around patterns, color combinations, and cultural heritage. The Chinese are well known for our embroidered silks that once was enjoyed only by royalty- people used to believe that silk spun by silkworms was a gift from the divinities. Unfortunately, much of the embroidery in commercially available clothing has been industrialized, and this art form is at risk of extinction as younger generations become more engaged in technology-driven economies. Regardless of the origin, I am obsessed with this top that’s dubbed “Rock Fusion”- this was the one piece that drew me into this sustainable brand. I think it has this edgy subtle paisley effect, and the muted colors compliment the navy blue material. Also, I got this awesome vintage fur vest at Connie’s Clothesline during a random trip to South Lake Tahoe in the summer — I've got impeccable timing for lugging around (pre-owned) fur. Anyway, you should check it out to double down on your sustainable style!

There's No Tomorrow

There’s No Tomorrow documentary by Incubate Pictures.

BUT WE’RE STILL HERE TODAY

And while we’re still here on this lovely planet, let’s make a better effort to keep the grounds comfortable for everyone and everything. To better educate oneself on the urgency of this situation, I found that this animated documentary simply yet elegantly illustrated how the combustion of fossil fuels is essentially destroying our planet. Our human-centered society is leading a story about infinite growth on finite resources when the only ending of this dialogue is a dead end. There is an urgency to switch out of petrol, coal, and other fossil fuels which are deposits that took 5,000,000 years to form. Since empowering our viral growth during the Industrialization era, we have used more than half of the fossil fuel deposits that we have found so far in about 80 years. The documentary goes into detail about it — it will just take 30-minutes to watch but it will make changes to your perspective on fuel consumption that will last a lifetime.

Cleaner Cotton Initiative

My friend Sarah attempting to consume cotton in a non-sustainable manner, photo by me.

It’s just after sunrise when my fellow traveling companion and I take off for a 2-hour drive out to the ethereal yet solemn terrain of California’s San Joaquin Valley, with its expanse of uniform agriculture revealed in the morning afterglow. In the same location that feeds the belly of the silicon beast, grows the Sustainable Cotton Project’s Cleaner Cotton™ For a typical city slicker like myself, a spontaneous venture out to the world's breadbasket was quite an extreme transition of environments. And seeing an extension of the sustainable agriculture movement revealed a whole other layer of value, or rather lack of value, in our clothing and the interconnected supply chains.

In the Silicon Valley Bay Area, the metaphor of money growing (and falling) from trees could not be more accurate. It’s the usual suspect for seemingly overnight emergence of technological ventures with initial capital investments valuing anywhere between the cost of a 30 second Super Bowl Ad ($4 million in 2014) to Obama’s vacation to Martha’s Vineyard ($100 million of our nation's taxpayer dollars). Tesla plans to expand cobalt mining (a headlining conflict mineral in Africa) to power more “greener" commuter vehicles of choice; the Whole Foods stock price drop could be seen as "good time for investors to snap up an excellent company for a good price”; while water-dependent businesses have seized new business ventures in response to California entering its 4th year of record-breaking drought. Despite this oversimplification of the seemingly limitless economic capacities in our region, it doesn’t discount the fact that there is one consistently limiting factor: the environment.

California's Top 5 Commodities in 2014 (million USD)

Agricultural Production in the California (2014)

The agricultural industry may seem humble in comparison to the entire California economy, but it’s the lifeblood of commerce in the San Joaquin Valley. Here we have a small but nimble group of farmers supplying 40% of America’s fresh produce, growing more the 350 different crops. Even though SJV accounts for only 2 percent of the state’s total $2 trillion economy, the Central Valley leads more than 37% of ag production and processing statewide. Over one-fifth of jobs in the Central Valley are linked to agriculture, with every $1 generated by farms linked to the production of another $3.50 in the local and regional economy.

Infographic based on information from the UK Pesticide Action Network (source).

Yet underlying their agricultural prosperity are growing economic struggles — in 2013, about 26% of the Fresno County residents lived in poverty compared to 15.9% statewide, with a median household income of $35,000. And problems don’t seem to slowing down as farmers are being forced to curtail their water rights due to the drought . On top of that, poor schooling is a chronic problem in the valley, crime and homelessness are rampant, while leading the third highest rate of foreclosure crisis in the country.

Cotton Agriculture in 2013 (acres)

Note: Conventional Cotton disproportionately produced (83,000,000 acres) that other options are nearly invisible on graph (530,000 acres, ~16,000 acres, 801 acres respectively) ; (W) refers to World, CC™ refers to Cleaner Cotton™, CA refers to California.

Cotton is a vital commodity in the development of the world’s clothing industry, most of which are produced through conventional/chemical ways (i.e. pesticides, herbicides, etc.). Only a small group of organizations are trying to connect brands to farmers that provide “cleaner” sources. Although organic cotton agriculture may not be an economically viable venture in California, which is grown according to the USDA’s National Organic Standard using non-genetically modified seeds, Cleaner Cotton™, the roistered trademark for cotton grown in SCP’s program, just might be the one-two punch strategy.

Even though Cleaner Cotton™ uses both genetically modified seeds from Monsanto or non-GMO seeds, which maintains the seed supply for the future- new (and safer) agricultural jobs are created in the local economy while removing several tons of the 13 deadliest pesticides from farmland. Regardless of the origin of the seed, all Cleaner Cotton™ is grown under stringent production methods that enhance the environmental goals of any existing organic cotton program.

The Sustainable Cotton Projects' "Nine Good Reasons
to Implement the Cleaner Cotton™ Program."

Applied Water for California Crops in 2010 (million acre/feet)

Source: file:///Users/victoriafong/Desktop/CA-Ag-Water-Use.pdf

Overall, this tour has given me an expanded appreciation of the resources that go into producing our clothing. Through researching why I didn't want to be involved in the Fashion industry, I've come across gut-wrenching problems that riddle the industry like pollution (right behind the oil industry, the #1 most polluting industry on the planet), the exploitation of less fortunate countries and communities (Rana Plaza collapse in 2013), and health concerns (carcinogenic dyes to warped body issues), and more.

Nonetheless, we are making healthier choices which are reflected in social changes like the growing options of organic and whole foods, the growing awareness of global warming, and the greater use of holistic and preventative care practices. It only seems natural that the filtering of our consumer behavior should extend to our clothing and fiber choices. However, the cleaner cotton product would still requires production and scaling for sustainability, and may put an immediate strain on already limited local water resources. Ideally, we would encourage the use of hemp, which is arguably the most sustainable textile and nutritional product on this planet, but it’s gone through the wringer of legislation for quite some time. Hopefully, a sustainable planet won’t be the stuff made of green dreams. And perhaps there is hope for all of us to extend the life of our current wardrobes - to buy just one less “dirty” shirt, and invest in a “cleaner” alternative.

Updated in 2019.

Purple Impression FW 2015

Model Nile Girard wearing Purple Impression’s organic hand-embroidered scarf, photo by me.

What originally caught my eye was the stunning floral needlework featured on a casual tunics, which I first noticed at the San Francisco’s 2nd Annual Sustainable Fashion Week International Event. And as a sucker for all things elaborately embroidered, I gravitated over like a kid in a candy store to be greeted by Drakshan- the designer and social entrepreneur behind the ethical fashion line Purple Impression. It’s a special type of experience to cross paths with people that exude natural authenticity, and getting to know Drakshan made initiating a creative collaboration even more gratifying.

Model Nile Giruard in Purple Impression Embroidered Summer Tunic dress in White, photo by me.

Income inequalities in developing countries aren't foreign, but it is nonetheless a brave endeavor to try to elevate the issue. In the case of Purple Impression, it was an eye-opening and honest experience to learn about the Pakistani communities of Drakshan’s heritage. During multiple trips to her motherland, she observed the stifling limitations on women in impoverished regions of Pakistan. Married women aren’t allowed to leave their homes due to strict social regulations that are enforced by their husband’s and fathers. Thus limiting their economic abilities to establish their financial independence and ultimately choices they make in their lives.

Model Nile Giruard wearing Purple Impression Hand-block printed tunic blouse, photo by me.

So instead of staying frustrated, Drakshan went (thread)balls out with Purple Impression by infusing her professional background in finance with a sustainable fashion solution. The Ethical Stitch project, which emerged from the vein of Purple Impression business model, that reinvigorates a dying fashionable art form to empower artisans, mostly women, with a source of financial freedom which has already been used towards medical aid, higher education for their children, and nutritional supplementation. For more details about the ethical and sustainable model behind Purple Impression, check out this awesome interview by Sustainably Chic: 

Model Nile Giraurd in Purple Impression Asma Button-down shirt, photo by me.

Beyond the fabric of fashion, Drakshan weaves a story of optimism in the face of adversity. The challenges she faced as a woman finding her footing in a foreign country, the impact of her Islam traditions on her social enterprise, and the struggles of motherhood that inspired her passion to empower other mothers are the culmination of Purple Impression. I can only hope that my visual expression of this fashion line will inspire you to ditch mass produced threads for ethical stitch. -VF