The #1 Way to Sustainably Meeting Your Needs

Fashion_and_Sustainability

Feeding the Beast Within…

Unconscious Consumerism

To be unaware of the sustainability movement in this day and age would require you to be living in a coal mine somewhere on the outskirts of Wyoming. Or hiding behind the white walls of Capital Hill — ignorance certainly is not specific to any socioeconomic class. I’d like to idealize that most people can fathom how “unconscious consumerism” can be destructive to our culture and planet. There are a plethora of reports on how the polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) released in our water supplies are toxic endocrine disruptors; how humans have been the primary cause of the spike in greenhouse gas emissions over the last 150 years; and how we would need about 5 Planet Earths for every human to sustain a typical All-American lifestyle. However, as someone who has been in the medical/scientific research field for the majority of my life thus far, I don’t think the way humans consume is always entirely under our conscious control. Constantly blaring warning signals may even aggravate one’s conscientious capabilities for making healthier decisions (e.g. the impact of stress on the HPA axis of the brain).

Design for change

As observed through my lens of bias, I think that there is a serious human crisis of unresolved needs plaguing our culture that is being artificially resolved with manufactured wants. “Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change” is a solid read for understanding all facets of sustainability in the consumer industry — from the design philosophy, sourcing of materials, textile selection, and production methods. But I think the chapter on “Needs” gets to the core of this chronic abuse of overconsumption (aka addictions), which applies the ideologies of economist Manfred Max-Neef and his taxonomy for human-scale development in communities with limited resources. I’ve also provided an example from my personal experience on how I’ve come to resolve some of my counterproductive habits through the identification of a core need. Hopefully, I can shine a light on any misunderstood aspects of our global sustainability concerns.

Manufactured wants vs Real needs

This excerpt from the book sums up the reality of manufactured wants versus real needs:

Conventional growth-focused economic wisdom promotes human craving for novelty and things as both natural and desirable. Yet humans’ desire for cyclical variety is easily manipulated by commerce. The cultural message of growth pervades our daily lives, clouding our perceptions, so that cutting through the sheer volume of commercial clutter to distinguish between real needs and manufactured wants is far from easy. But Manfred Max-Neef provides a view of human needs and motivations that helps us reflect deeply on the industry, design practice and ourselves.
— Excerpt From: Kate Fletcher. "Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change."

Chilean economist Manfred Max-Neef details his now famous phrase "the economy is to serve the people, not people serve the economy."

MANFRED MAX-NEEF’S HUMAN SCALE DEVELOPMENT

Manfred Max-Neef was a German-Chilean economist and environmentalist mainly known for his human development model based on fundamental human needs. Max-Neef started his career as a Professor of economics at the University of California, Berkeley in the early 1960s, with much of his research done as a visiting Professor in various universities around Latin America and the United States. The bulk of his ideologies grew from his time living and experiencing the life of various poverty-stricken communities in South America; hence, his focus was on the development in the Third World. He criticized the inappropriateness of applying conventional models of development, which have contributed to poverty, debt and ecological disasters for Third World communities. And that at present we are going through not only an economic-financial crisis but “a crisis of humanity.” His fundamental needs taxonomy was a tool to help people reconcile their needs while adjusting to the limited availability of resources.

Max-Neef proposed that all human needs are universal and immutable, but the strategies to create “satisfiers” are flexible and negotiable. Based on the source of capital, however, they can be “sustainable” or “unsustainable”.

SATISFIERS VS DESTROYERS

This is a description of Manfred Max-Neef’s taxonomy of human needs from the sustainable fashion book, and how it can apply to your sustainable growth (especially about the part concerning “poverty of the whole”):

Max-Neef’s taxonomy of human needs was developed from his work with small communities in South America, to help identify their “wealths” and “poverties” and then to work on how these may be best maximised and minimised respectively. He identified nine fundamental human needs and myriad “satisfiers” (which fall into four existential states: being, having, doing and interacting). Max-Neef notes that one satisfier may address several needs at once and benefit the whole, while “destroyers” may seem to satisfy a need but in fact inhibit several other and bring poverty to the whole.
— Excerpt From: Kate Fletcher. "Fashion, Sustainability, Design: Design for Change."

Max-Neef’s Taxonomy of Fundamental Needs and Satisfiers

I’ve reproduced Max-Neef’s Taxonomy on Google Sheets so that you can conveniently track the satisfiers that you have resolved:

The Manfeed Max-Neef taxonomy that I’ve recreated on Google Spreadsheets for helping you identify and track your fundamental human need that you’ve satisfied so to better understand which aspects of your life that you need work on to avoid maladjust…

The Manfeed Max-Neef taxonomy that I’ve recreated on Google Spreadsheets for helping you identify and track your fundamental human need that you’ve satisfied so to better understand which aspects of your life that you need work on to avoid maladjusted behaviours.


A PERSONAL REFLECTION ON UNSUSTAINABLE HABITS

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Counterproductive Coping Mechanisms

I’ve come to realise that my excessive consumer habits were a coping mechanism to counter anxieties influenced by an onslaught of self-deprecating thoughts from an insecure sense of identity. Ergo, I used my desperate hunt for one as an excuse to uninhibitedly seek novel purchases, other people’s validation, and (for a period) sedating substances to dampen the unbearable feelings of unease. The benefit, however, has been an openness to interacting with a whole smorgasbord of folks who have provided some sort of direction and a familial sense of belonging. Fashion, on the other hand, was a self-empowering, fresh set of armor; it was the disguise that allowed me to quickly shape-shift into an upgraded version of myself. However, as we’re all probably familiar with, most forms of externally-derived comfort provide a dose of dopamine that requires a constant fresh supply to sustain the positive feedback.

Mandatory Mirroring

The number one method that has resolved a good portion of my anxieties was to find mentors (in real life) that mirrored my greatest potential, highest ideals, and most importantly resonated with my sense of play. That has been my fast-track pass to breaking destructive behavioral patterns that were primarily emotional crutches. For those of us who were raised to dysfunction through the motivation of external validation (whether it be good grades, high salaries, attractive partners, etc.), the ultimate goal of proper mirroring is to help one align with their core reserves of self-love. This foundational sense of self begins formation during early childhood and requires a parent or primary caretaker to properly mirror back your personal experience through reaffirming behaviors (e.g. the excitement of the budding dancer instead of rage as a hyperactive nuisance). However, based on my personal experience, this can also be cultivated later in life — and maybe it’s meant to be a lifelong process. Nevertheless, all humans are creative forces that require consistent interconnectivity to sustain healthy habits. Consuming is just one side of the same coin of connection (the other side being creation) which can be harnessed beneficially as equally as it can be destructive. And I’ve come to realize at the ripe age of 30+ that a prerequisite to healthy connecting is to be in touch with an unshakeable sense of self.

Conscious Communities

When it comes to interactions that foster your core identity, there are plenty of nice people to choose from but only the right tribe can support your evolution — as obvious as that sounds. And you’re welcome for my perpetual experiences of trial and error. If you find that you are a social chameleon, and/or are constantly seeking external validation (be it new purchases, rewards, relationships, etc.) as an immediate resolution to a feeling of “emptiness,” then you may have been raised in a family that did not properly mirror back your core identity. However, I also think this is a mass issue as a result of multigenerational traumas and societally imposed belief systems. As for myself, I’d like to think that I’ve collected an amalgamation of ideas that I can call (on most days) an unshakeable core self. And this hasn’t been without the help of people that I admire, and who also resonate back a loving response. Fictional characters and public figures can be a part of your inspiration repertoire too, but intimate conversations on shared passions and similar senses of humor gives me that joie de vivre — there has not been a designer ensemble, Parisian vacation, or gastronomical creation that’s provided greater gratification than finding a counterpart who could navigate (or at least partially wade in) the expansive corners of one's personal paracosm (although I’m not opposed to most forms of a good time). This brief excerpt from Stone Medicine, a helpful resource on holistic health, helped me realign with the purpose of the choices that we make:

Implicit in having a sense of purpose in life, with the ability to develop deep, meaningful relationships, is the need to make choices. When we leave our families and go off to school or work, we do not make friends with just anybody we meet. We seek out those people who support our own self-perception, who reflect back to us who we think we are... Our relationships are not just the result of circumstances; they are reflections of our motivations for choosing who we are going to allow into our lives... If our lives are meaningful, with satisfying, fulfilling relationships and vocations, our choices are working for us. If not, the objective observation of our motivations can help us to change.
— Excerpt From: Leslie J. Franks. “Stone Medicine"

Personal Peace

So there you have it, my number one tip for sustainably meeting your needs on our finite, though endlessly loving Mother Earth: to make a conscious effort to connect with people who resonate the best out of you, and not just out of circumstance. And to not be afraid of making mistakes with your interactions because it’s bound to happen — and if they don’t vibe, they aren’t your tribe and possibly a temporary lesson in disguise. Unproductive attachments (to objects, people, etc.) can be, in Max-Neef’s terms, destroyers of development (and all those hours at hot yoga sweating your ass off past disappointments will become NULL and VOID). Naturally, any social intelligence that I have is credited to my fair share of social faux pas which I’ve wallowed about for eons in my bottomless pit of toxic shame. Thank goodness for the overly benevolent souls from the Universe who have managed to help pull me out my emotional sludge. And now I present to you these transmuted nuggets of wisdom that I’ve decided to call my four Ps for personal peace (which is in itself a process-in-progress):

1. Process: how we choose to navigate life
2. People: who’s in it for the long (or short) haul
3. Place: timing and location
4. Products: meaning inspired creations.

CONCLUDING REMARKS

To end this sort of sideways approach to clearing out old skeletons from my closet, I will leave you with another excerpt from Stone Medicine that I think is a pleasant, minimalistic summary for the purpose of struggle in our sustainable self-actualisation process:

Emotional and physical pain is intrinsic to human experience. The difficulties and tragedies we inevitably encounter are tests of our faith, devotion, and compassion. For most of us illness will be unavoidable, even if we make the effort to eat and exercise properly. At the same time, our illnesses and our pain can be our best teachers to help us discover the lessons we must learn in order to complete the curriculum for this life. Even if we are not able to cure our illnesses, they offer us a wonderful opportunity to become aware and conscious about our innermost being and to achieve a higher degree of wisdom.
— Excerpt From: Leslie J. Franks. “Stone Medicine”

Updated in 2019

The Gorilla in the Room

I wrote this article sometime in 2014 on “Ishmael,” a 1992 philosophical novel by Daniel Quinn. The novel is an examination of the mythological thinking central to modern civilisation, how it affects our accepted code of conduct, and ultimately the impact of sustainability on a global scale. For the purpose of enforcing the author’s message, I’ve discussed a current oil exploration controversy in the Arctic Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) to highlight these catastrophic consequences. -VF

Arctic Wildlife Refuge- photo by Jan Reurink

Daniel Quinn’s Ishmael is like having a conversation with a favorite grandparent. It’s that gentle shake intended to get you moving in the right direction. Except Grandpa is a gorilla with telepathic powers and an exceptional understanding of human civilization — like a Buddha meets Yoda hybrid. But this time, he’s got some really bad news.

Ishmael by Daniel Quinn Comic (source)

Ishmael is a “teacher [in search of ] a pupil [with] an earnest desire to save the world.” And the narrator, a writer intrigued by the apprenticeship, ultimately accepts the challenge with surprisingly little apprehension of his new mentor’s physicality. But with no time is wasted the apprenticeship begins. Through a Socratic-style choreographed dialogue, you come to understand the cumulative causes behind the ecologically destructive attitudes running rampant in our culture- mythology being a primary motivator. 

The mentor distinguishes mankind into two cultures: the “Leavers” being the hunter/gatherers of indigenous societies that thrived long before the agricultural revolution. And the “Takers” of the populations who kill or pillage other cultures to exploit their native lands’ resources for our insatiable wants. Ishmael exemplifies this condition through the concept of Creationism. The story of Adam & Eve, the Tree of Knowledge, the Fall of Man, and Cain & Able all entail components of the “Taker and Leaver” theory. Leading the disciple to question whether humanity alone would be the root cause of an impending global meltdown, or rather the result of a culture’s stronghold on the global economy. And that’s exactly Ishmael’s point- it is one culture acting out one story, a story where humans believe they have ultimate knowledge of what’s right and wrong, and limitless production and population growth is the objective.

The storyline of the “Leavers” and the offshoot of the “Takers”, (source).

Daniel Quinn’s method of examining human and environmental sustainability is unconventional, but it makes sense that a gorilla is the “teacher”. Homo sapiens are a direct descendant from the gorilla species with just under 1.6% variation in genomic DNA. Except for the evolution of the consciousness and a few other phenotypic characteristics, it’s not unusual that we share many qualities with our ancestors including Maslow’s hierarchy of needs. However, the narration didn’t necessarily make a direct link to the current impact of our “taker’s” enactment of “man’s fall”. 

Gwich'in Sisters, Cora and Lillian, participated in a traditional dance performance during the 2016 Gwich'in Gathering in Arctic Village, Alaska via Smithsonian Magazine

To correlate the greater political powers at play and the potential ramifications of our current “taking” irresponsibilities, consider the recent Arctic Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) oil drilling controversy. The expansion of domestic oil production into the Arctic regions has been an ongoing public battle since gaining traction in 1977. The primary taker and leaver parties involved were U.S. oil companies and Native Gwich’in communities respectively. Acknowledging the loses over the gains, President Carter passed a bill in 1980 that banned oil drilling in 194 million acres of ANWR wilderness but allowed further analysis of this “1002” area without any drilling. However, this issue was reconsidered multiple times by US Congress/Electoral powers until President Bush successfully reversed the ban, citing the “energy crisis” a major factor for more oil access.

An oil production facility and pipelines in Alaska's Prudhoe Bay. Photo: Design Pics Inc/National Geographic Image Collection (source)

Fast-forward a few years later, some heavy investments, and multiple bitter court battles- turns out the ANWR contained an almost comically lower amount of oil than anticipated. Due to new technology, oil reserves estimates were corrected to hold a disappointing 896 million barrels instead of the initial estimate of 5.7-15 billion barrels. In addition to financial losses of $4.6 billion, the economic viability of this venture was looking even more questionable- not to mention the potential environmental catastrophes and the uprooting of a nearly extinct aboriginal culture. So in January 2014, Shell CEO Ben van Beurden announced that they would no longer pursue exploration drilling in the Arctic Ocean.

Russia's Gazprom and Ukraine's Naftogaz: David and Goliath? (Credit: DW contributing cartoonist Sergey Elkin)

Unfortunately, this delay in oil exploration was short-lived. Shell still plans to partner with Gazprom to drill into Russia- Gazprom is Forbes’ #2 biggest oil company in the world with close ties to Russian President Vladimir Putin. In light of the current diplomatic crisis in Ukraine, Gazprom stated they would stop providing the country discounted gas prices starting April 2014 due to unpaid debts- adding to Ukraine’s already deteriorating finances. This prompts an Ishmael-influenced question: has humankind made itself into a global tyrant?

NASA-funded study: Over 32 advanced civilisations have collapsed before us, and we’re next in line (source).

Upon examination of Ishmael’s closing lines: “With gorilla gone, will there be hope for man? With man gone, will there be hope for gorilla?” He makes us question the survival of humankind as the original ways of sustainable living become dilute over time. However, there have been several historical accounts where complete civilizations collapsed due to overconsumption — the Mayans, the Roman Empire, the advanced Han Civilisation, the Mesopotamian Empires, just to name a few. Perhaps we are underestimating the Earth’s resilience, as it has also gone through several significant climate changes and environmental alterations over millions of years before the industrial era (i.e. the Ice Age). This evidence supports Earth’s immense capacity to self-restore.

The De-evolution of Man (source)

The gorilla species, or any species as we know it might not be able to survive in the environment that we leave behind upon our self-inflicted extinction. However, whatever organisms left behind may eventually evolve and expand in response to Earth’s evolution, just as they originally did in Earth’s primordial soup. Ultimately, Ishmael makes the preventative approach crystal clear: “Man’s place is to be the first without being the last. Man’s place is to figure out how it’s possible to do that — and then to make some room for all the rest who are capable of becoming what he’s become.” -VF

Updated in 2019

There's No Tomorrow

There’s No Tomorrow documentary by Incubate Pictures.

BUT WE’RE STILL HERE TODAY

And while we’re still here on this lovely planet, let’s make a better effort to keep the grounds comfortable for everyone and everything. To better educate oneself on the urgency of this situation, I found that this animated documentary simply yet elegantly illustrated how the combustion of fossil fuels is essentially destroying our planet. Our human-centered society is leading a story about infinite growth on finite resources when the only ending of this dialogue is a dead end. There is an urgency to switch out of petrol, coal, and other fossil fuels which are deposits that took 5,000,000 years to form. Since empowering our viral growth during the Industrialization era, we have used more than half of the fossil fuel deposits that we have found so far in about 80 years. The documentary goes into detail about it — it will just take 30-minutes to watch but it will make changes to your perspective on fuel consumption that will last a lifetime.

STUDIO RWANDA

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An Insider’s Look behind


Fashion Haus Rwanda

It’s a comfortable 75F degree weather, and I’ve decided on a whim to head out to the market for an early afternoon snack of avocados and papaya. After a brief verbal Ping-Pong with the driver to come to a “fare” agreement, I hop onto the motto-taxi and prepare myself for the rolling roads of this “land of a thousand hills.” In Kigali, Rwanda’s capital and largest city, the scene can quickly transition from looming buildings of downtown establishments, gated communities owned by the wealthy, to humble homes where intermittent outages are the norm. Regardless of the social standing, everyone is dressed beautifully! Welcome to a world of vibrant & bold ibitenge waxed prints, custom-tailored accouterments, creatively repurposed clothing from “international donors” (ie. the Salvation Army), locally supported sericulture, manually manipulated embroidery, and other artisanal accessories. And with a growing Fashion industry, this East African evergreen country may be soon be dubbed the “land of a thousand fashionable opportunities”. -VF

Shops specialising in just colorful waxed fabrics (ibitenge) can be found in almost every neighborhood as its still pretty common for many of the locals to design and make their own clothing attire.

This is the lovely seamstress who made two of my dresses, which you can see below.

Here is Eric designing something for one of our friends — he was a new friend who took us around to the local digs, and always dressed extra sharp.

Traditional embroidery to fabric that’s to made into a shirt.

Me and my travel girls — we got all dressed up in our new dresses to go celebrate Nidhi’s birthday.

This is my second dress at the Rwanda Cultural Fashion show — I’m really love this green flower print over black, super elegant.

A few of the kids from the non-profit organisation that I joined in support of environmental conservation in Rwanda. We were taken to Akagera National Park as means of experiencing the local parks, where we learned about the conservation efforts post genocide when trees were destroyed for survival.

Having a meal with the ladies at an organic community farm — this was probably one of the most epic all-vegetarian meals that I had in Rwanda.

Mix and match — mother carrying her child on the roads somewhere in Kigali.

Evening attire at the 2014 Rwanda Cultural Fashion show.

Traditional Rwanda evening wear for the royalty made out of local silk.

I got to sit next to the beautiful Miss Rwanda of 2014 - love her accessories.

Aren’t these the cutest matching suits — this was shot at a celebratory dinner for the completion of a music video developed around solar light access.